Eat Like An Expert: Durian - D197 Mao Shan Wang (猫山王)

D24, Mao Shan Wang, D13, XO, Red Prawns, D1, Black Pearl....so many types of durians. Can you differentiate them? Do you know why there is a prefix 'D'? Which are the better ones? If you are the type who enjoys eating good durians but can't be bothered to "research" about them, I would say that sticking to Mao Shan Wang is a safe bet. However, the issue is that Mao Shan Wang commands a premium over an average durian due to the taste and popularity. That is why it is important to have some basic knowledge to avoid being cheated, and at the same time, make you seem like an expert!

Before I go straight into Mao Shan Wang, here are some general knowledge about durians.  There are many numerous durian cultivars, i.e. varieties, selected for having more superior qualities. In Malaysia, once registered with Department of Agriculture, the cultivar will be given a code name 'Dxxx' with the numeric in chronological order and serves as copyright equivalent for the planters. Planting using seeds from trees with superior fruits have historically ended in mixed results. Therefore, nowadays these cultivars are cloned using cultivation techniques such as marcotting. In addition, to the code name, most of the durians also have local names that convey certain characteristics.

In the case of Mao Shan Wang, it is also known as Musang King (毛山王) or Cat Mountain King. This name is derived from Gua Musang region, where the clone is first planted and where the main fruit trading centre in Kelatan is located. The birth origin of Mao Shan Wang is at Tanah Merah, Kelantan. Sometimes, it is also called Raja Kunyit - kunyit literally means tumeric yellow, the colour of the flesh. Registered in 1993, it has a code name D197.

Mao Shan Wang is now grown in different states in Malaysia. Majority of those exported to Singapore comes from Pahang and Johor.

How to tell if a durian is Mao Shan Wang?

On the surface,

• "Birthmark" - brownish starfish-like shape at the base. There is a Thai variety Chanee with similar feature. But if there is no "starfish", it is definitely not Mao Shan Wang

• Shape - oval or "pear" shape, and seldom round

• Thorns - short and thick pyramid shape with 4 to 6 sides at the base, and seldom cone

• Colour - various shades of green, but usually light green. The lighter the green, the bitter the taste. Some are greyish brown

Inside the husk,

• Flesh colour - bright buttery yellow. That is why it has the word kunyit in its name

• Flesh texture - creamy and rich, but lack of fibre. Flesh can get dislodge from the seed quite easily

• Seed - small and usually sunk in

• Taste - sweet at first bite transforming to bitter as you swallow; some say the other way round

• Smell - sweet aroma, with mild pungent

However, not all the Mao Shan Wang are created equal. 

There are some species that some claim are of higher quality. At some stalls, some of the Mao Shan Wang are labelled as "King of Kings" (王中王). These are the Mao Shang Wang from the original established plantations where the trees are very old. Some like the ones from Bentong region in Pahang and consider them to be the best. Another popular type is the mini Mao Shan Wang, each weighs less than 1 kg.